First-time camera buyers and some beginners have a lot of trouble choosing right lens for their need. So here I am going to discuss some of their functions to help them a bit. Lets know that "Lenses are the most important thing in your camera bag", now lets move on to the conceptions.
COLOUR & CONTRAST
You might be thinking that colour and contrast output should be a part camera/sensor , then how does it fare ? But actually not always, lens take a huge part in delivering colour and contrast. Actually the glass coating & quality takes a part in delivering contrast & colour. Many companies have their own series of Premium-Glass/Optics to give you a better image quality. Ex- Canon 'L'- series lens , Zeiss 'Batis'-Series lens , Sony 'G-Master' lens ect. You cant measure that contrast and colour with numbers, its just a observation of your naked eye.
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| Low-contrast vs High-contrast |
https://www.dxomark.com/ - is a website to compare different cameras & lens , in a international perspective.
FOCAL LENGTH & FOCUS BREATHING
You might know that, our lenses are measured by the 35mm(Full-Frame cameras) equivalent camera sensor. So get the actual focal length in APS-C(Crop-sensor cameras) cameras we have to multiply the crop-factor (Sony & Nikon - 1.5 , Canon - 1.6). Ex- 50mm on Full-frame camera is 75/80mm on APS-C cameras.
But other than that there is a "Focus breathing issue" Whats that ? alright, when you buy a Tamron 70-200mm f2.8 lens foe a full-frame camera , then you should get the actual 70-200mm focal range right ? Wrong ! Some companies make their lenses ungracefully , the actual focal range become bigger. Means the lens written above would give you >70 mm in its least focal distance and as well as >200 mm in the maximum territory.
M-Pix
So you get an 46 Megapixel d850 and you put on a lens and started taking top-noch-sharpness with your camera , Right ? No , hold on ! No ! Sharpness is calculated in M-Pix , sharpness has almost-nothing to do with megapixel if you doesn't choose the best lens for your camera.Yes! even if you are paying for a high resolution camera , you wont get the result. M-Pix is measured in a long examination process , but companies dont want to give you that number in order of sale purposes. So how to know if you are having a good lens or not ? DxoMark tests every lens and give you the results to choose from, anyting above than 18 M-Pix should be enough for a beginner. Thats why when you buy a high-res camera , you have to put a high-quality lens that costs as much not costlier than your camera.(Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 in APS-C & Tamron 85mm f/1.4 in Full-Frame the sharpest lens my eye can see)
Aperture-Blade
Apperture are devides in 5/7/9/11/13 - blades that move around to give you your desired f/stop. Fewer blades means your light particle of your bokeh(Blur background ) will be less-rounded and more aperture blade means rounded bokeh. Its an objective matter that , what you prefer. (I like less rounded ones)
Sweet-spot of your f-stop
"Crank up to f/1.2 and you will get a better image " "Crank up to f/22 yo will get a sharper image" thats how its work right ? No! every lens has its own sweet-spot where it can produce its maximum sharpness, higher and lower than that will might give you the look you want but it will cost sharpness.
f/1.2 or 1.4 is not always better
Wider apertures produces more light and high-quality heavy glass to work with. Bigger and heavies glass reduces camera's focusing capabilities which suffers form wrong tming. They are also not sharp enough in many cases(Ex-Canon 85mm f/1.2)
Thank you for reading my article , please do leave a comment about how you feel and please let me know if you want to let me write anything. Hope you like it . Good-Day
Here's a link that might help yout to choose the best lens for you
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